KrisAK wrote: Anyone have an iMac-friendly mechanical keyboard they'd care to recommend? After looking at too many videos and hard-core gamer (I'm not) reviews, I've narrowed it down to three:. But have any other models caught your attention?

Anything to be avoided? I use: - Apple Extended Keyboard II (via ADB to USB adapter) and - WASD keyboard (MX Blue switches) with Apple layout keys The former because I am a huge fan of vintage keyboards. At work (PC) I use an original IBM Model M, the best keyboard ever made. And the Apple Extended II is still better than every keyboard Apple made in the last 5 years. But I also use the WASD, especially when a have to type a lot. WASD let's you customize the keycaps and I added legends for many special characters. At work (I have 2 offices) I also have a Logitech K-something, very similar to the K840.

Very nice to type on, but I prefer the sturdier, heftier IBM. In fact, every 'mechanical' keyboard is far superior to the rubber-dome junk keyboards.

Just be careful with 'gaming' keyboards. Gamers prefer switches witch very low actuation force and not 'clicky' or 'tactile' (audible or not). Typing requires different switches. MX Blue are the standard for typing and not a good option for gaming. I also like them the most (after IBM's 'buckling spring') and since I have my own office, noise is not an issue. If you are a touch typist you need to audition what works for you because there are major differences in the height of the keyboard, height of the keys, key travel, force to press a key and many more things that either work for you or don't. Some mechanical keyboards make very loud noise pressing the keys comparable to an old mechanical typewriter.

I have a number of keyboards with mechanical switches including the original IBM with PS2 port (not easy to get to work stably via adapters in OSX) and a couple of highly related gaming keyboards along with the ubiquitous mush keyboards from Microsoft, Logitech et al. I always return to the basic USB wired Apple keyboard, I don't know if they still even make it, both for OSX and Windows because I like the combination of mechanical, feel, key travel and the low height of the keyboard.

And it is relatively quiet when pounding out long text documents. It also has a USB port on the right side, convenient for any form of mouse attachment. Higher end mechanical keyboards can be pricey and I have made that mistake. If you actually use the OSX modified F keys then you need an OSX specific keyboard.

Otherwise the only differences are that the Windows key is the command key in OSX and alt is option. I am a fan of mechanical keyboards but I can't say that I am any kind of 'expert.'

I went with a Leopold FC200RT/KB. I spent around $120, which included keycaps to replace the 'Windows' versions, a keycap puller and rubber washers to slightly dampen the sound and adjust the key travel. I prefer what is referred to as a 'tenkeyless' keyboard.

There are no calculator keys. Such keyboards are less expensive and allow your mouse/trackball to be closer to the keys you use the most. Ergonomically-speaking, that can be an advantage for people like me. Separate small calculator keyboards are available if you only occasionally use the number keys. Here are a few links that may be helpful. LOTs of info.

Good info with the largest online selection of mechanical keyboards that I have found. (The handcrafted Japanese frames for use with Filco keyboards are beautiful.) Where I bought my Leopold. PC keyboards can be used with Macs, which expands your options considerably. There is keyboard remapping software available which addresses function key usability. I don't have any recent personal experience with remapping. I don't use the F keys; the scroll and similar keys work fine without remapping.

PerTulip wrote: lightandaprayer wrote. There is keyboard remapping software available which addresses function key usability. I don't have any recent personal experience with remapping. I use a combination of Karabiner Elements and Keyboard Maestro for that. Even to remap the MBP's own keyboard (like replacing CAPS LOCK with cmd+crtl+shift for macro access).

I just checked and I still have the downloads of those apps from when I bought my keyboard in the fall of 2012. That's when I got my Mac Mini. I just never got around to doing anything with them. (I also have KeyCue, KeyRemap4MacBook and PCKeyboardHack in a folder.) I see that Karabiner (what I have.) is the latest version of Karabiner Elements, which is the update of KeyRemap4MacBook. Apparently a lot has happened since I got the software. Thanks for the reminder/tip. I'll check out Karabiner, since I don't want to run macros, just remap a few F keys.

Lightandaprayer wrote: I am a fan of mechanical keyboards but I can't say that I am any kind of 'expert.' I went with a Leopold FC200RT/KB.

I spent around $120, which included keycaps to replace the 'Windows' versions, a keycap puller and rubber washers to slightly dampen the sound and adjust the key travel. I prefer what is referred to as a 'tenkeyless' keyboard. There are no calculator keys. Such keyboards are less expensive and allow your mouse/trackball to be closer to the keys you use the most. Ergonomically-speaking, that can be an advantage for people like me. Separate small calculator keyboards are available if you only occasionally use the number keys. Excellent point.

I'd written off the 'TKL' variety, but now that you mention it. While I don't have carpal tunnel syndrome, I do get shimmers of what might be the start of cubital tunnel, as well as 'mouse shoulder.' I remember reading that having to reach across the extra distance of a keypad in order to manipulate the mouse can exacerbate things. Better to keep the mouse closer so as to limit movements.or so the theory goes. As a little exercise, I've covered the keypad on my HP (I'm slowly migrating to a 5K iMac) just to see how much I miss those keys. Here are a few links that may be helpful. LOTs of info.

Good info with the largest online selection of mechanical keyboards that I have found. (The handcrafted Japanese frames for use with Filco keyboards are beautiful.) Where I bought my Leopold. PC keyboards can be used with Macs, which expands your options considerably. There is keyboard remapping software available which addresses function key usability. I don't have any recent personal experience with remapping. I don't use the F keys; the scroll and similar keys work fine without remapping. Oddly enough, when I emailed MechanicalKeyboards about a Mac-specific model, they pointed me to the.which only comes as a TKL.

PerTulip wrote: I use: - Apple Extended Keyboard II (via ADB to USB adapter) and - WASD keyboard (MX Blue switches) with Apple layout keys The former because I am a huge fan of vintage keyboards. At work (PC) I use an original IBM Model M, the best keyboard ever made. And the Apple Extended II is still better than every keyboard Apple made in the last 5 years. But I also use the WASD, especially when a have to type a lot.

WASD let's you customize the keycaps and I added legends for many special characters. At work (I have 2 offices) I also have a Logitech K-something, very similar to the K840. Very nice to type on, but I prefer the sturdier, heftier IBM. In fact, every 'mechanical' keyboard is far superior to the rubber-dome junk keyboards. Just be careful with 'gaming' keyboards.

Gamers prefer switches witch very low actuation force and not 'clicky' or 'tactile' (audible or not). Typing requires different switches.

MX Blue are the standard for typing and not a good option for gaming. I also like them the most (after IBM's 'buckling spring') and since I have my own office, noise is not an issue. OK, I just spent an hour playing with WASD's custom-keyboard designer. I didn't order anything (yet), but gosh that's addictive. And if I'm going to spend $150 on a keyboard, I may as well get a wacky design.

(Too bad the CODE isn't as customizable; at the very least, they could offer some shine-through Mac keycaps.). I'm big on computer work station ergonomics. I had to quit using the flat panel iMacs due to a lack of display adjustments.

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The last few years I've been enjoying a motorized sit/stand desk, where easy display height adjustment is required. I gave up on computer mice 20+ years ago. I just can't wrap my head around moving a mouse just to move a freakin' cursor. I've used the same mechanical trackballs for all of these years. They are designed so both right-handed and left-handed people can use them.

The palm of my hand rests on an oval gel pad; the only thing that moves is my index finger and not much either. Two large side buttons are programmable. Just an FYI if you’re used to a current generation Apple keyboard from the last several years. The size of the keycap striking surface on a majority of mechanical keyboards is measurably smaller than the striking surface of the keycaps on Apple’s “chicklet design.” At least it was on every Corsair, Logitech, and Razr model of mechanical switch keyboard I was able to measure at local retail. This size difference may or may not be a problem for you. I’d bet that most people are either unaffected by it or get used to it pretty easily. In my case, I decided I didn’t want to risk $80-120 on a new keyboard only to find that I couldn’t deal with keys that are effectively smaller.

Clarification-The classic style mechanical keyboard is the 'IBM Selectric.' This wasn't originally designed for an IBM computer, but for IBM Selectric electric typewriters that preceded desktop computers. IBM Selectric typewriters were the mainstays of offices in the old days and were made for 'touch typists'-typists whose fingers fly across the keyboard, like playing a musical instrument-no looking, no 'hunting and pecking.' So the keyboard had to be as perfectly responsive as possible. This is still a favored design today among various pro keyboard makers and aficionados. The keys are shaped to center one's fingers on the keys without accidentally hitting adjacent keys.

Most versions have a soft-clicky-resistance feedback, but are also available without this feedback. Key travel is about 2mm. I use a DasKeyboard version of the Selectric style for my MacBook Pro. It comes in separate versions for PCs and for Apples. No modifications needed. Just plug-and-play without drivers. I can type very fast and accurately on this keyboard.

Billiam29 wrote: Just an FYI if you’re used to a current generation Apple keyboard from the last several years. The size of the keycap striking surface on a majority of mechanical keyboards is measurably smaller than the striking surface of the keycaps on Apple’s “chicklet design.” At least it was on every Corsair, Logitech, and Razr model of mechanical switch keyboard I was able to measure at local retail. This size difference may or may not be a problem for you. I’d bet that most people are either unaffected by it or get used to it pretty easily. In my case, I decided I didn’t want to risk $80-120 on a new keyboard only to find that I couldn’t deal with keys that are effectively smaller. The average keycap on mechanical keyboards may be smaller than the 'chiclet' keys on some portable Macs.

But those mechanical keyboard keycaps have a distinct advantage that more than makes up for their slightly smaller size: they are concave on the top, which effectively captures your fingertips as they fly over the keyboard. The concave design is much more effective for improving typing accuracy and increasing speed than having a larger surface area that is flat as a pancake. If you are concerned about the difference, you can purchase inexpensive demo key and switch combos from the better keyboard retailers. Or you can buy a keyboard from a retailer that accepts returns.

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Just be sure about the warranty; some keyboard retailers will not accept a return unless there is a problem with the order. Jdc562 wrote: Clarification-The classic style mechanical keyboard is the 'IBM Selectric.' This wasn't originally designed for an IBM computer, but for IBM Selectric electric typewriters that preceded desktop computers. IBM Selectric typewriters were the mainstays of offices in the old days and were made for 'touch typists'-typists whose fingers fly across the keyboard, like playing a musical instrument-no looking, no 'hunting and pecking.' So the keyboard had to be as perfectly responsive as possible.

This is still a favored design today among various pro keyboard makers and aficionados. The keys are shaped to center one's fingers on the keys without accidentally hitting adjacent keys. Most versions have a soft-clicky-resistance feedback, but are also available without this feedback. Key travel is about 2mm.

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I use a DasKeyboard version of the Selectric style for my MacBook Pro. It comes in separate versions for PCs and for Apples. No modifications needed. Just plug-and-play without drivers. I can type very fast and accurately on this keyboard. It's the 'Model M' (or even 'F').

I still use one. And the Das Keyboard is inferior.